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Coin counterfeiter gets busted
Double check those high grade PCGS morgans you got!
http://www.contracostatimes.com/spor...nclick_check=1 |
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I'd have to say that it's an inside job with the family member fencing the coins. Or someone taking advantage of a family member's trust. Maybe they weren't looked at very closely because of that. Either way, it makes you wonder about what you might be buying sometimes.
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Link no worky?
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Works for me.
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I had to try it a couple of times.
http://www.contracostatimes.com/sports-headlines/ci_13569440?nclick_check=1&forced=true What kills me is that this coin dealer was willing to pay 75k for a coin without even taking it out of the damn case?! |
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Of course, but what is the grading fee (especially for a member like a coin dealer), $15?
Even if the fee was $100, not examining a $75,000 coin to save $100 is absolutely stupid. |
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$75k (or more) coins are bought and sold without being "cracked out" of their holders all the time. Cutting a coin in half and matching rare mint marks with rare dates is a new one on me though. NGC's new holders just found their new purpose.
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It's talking about multiple coins... ...in authentic PCGS holders. You don't crack open sealed graded coins (especially PCGS). That would defeat the whole purpose of grading the coins in the first place. The newer ANACS and NGC spoked holders Jekyll7, won't always help. I had a two tailed Washington quarter, it actually looked like it was minted that way. It wasn't until I looked at it through a micro scope that I could tell how it was made. One quarter was milled out on a high quality lathe right out to just the inside of the rimmed edge like a precision cut cup. The other quarter was milled like a precision cut plug and then epoxied together. You know how many coin tosses I won until I lost that coin? (about 19 out of 20 people would always call heads). Now, I told you that story (true story) so that you could see that a coin doesn't need to even be sealed to trick some one. Back to the bigger picture, I've known Larry and have done business with him for almost 40 years. He knows his s***t. It was because he knows his s***t that there was something about one of the coins that didn't jive. Your Location: 'nuff said. :smile: P.S. The bad guy got caught because Larry does know his shit! P.P.S. The quarter fell off of the boat with everything else. |
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So with all the fake PCGS slabs floating around, he still didn't think it wise to crack it open and examine it, since he could then have it reslabbed for like 0.001% of the purchase price of the coin?
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No doubt. With the number of fakes out there, including those in slabs, you have to be extra careful. There is a somewhat new service called CAC I believe, that certifies certified coins. :confused_ma: It's no secret among the coin collecting/dealing world that China (among others) is pumping out fakes by the boatload and that they are infiltrating the hobby. Sometimes it's just better to focus on bullion, but even with those you have to be extra careful about fakes. Our shop policy for now is to not buy 100 ounce silver bars for example. |
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Good point. Those new edge holders may be kinda ugly, but they serve a nice purpose. |
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I was at a coin store a few years back looking for silver. They bring out these 10oz bars. And they were beautiful. Very thin with the dollar bill imprint on them. But nowhere could I find .999 fine silver. I think it said 1 troy oz though. I said to her that I couldn't find .999 anywhere on it. She had nothing to say. I got the feeling they were plated and walked out. What do you guys think?
edit....sorry about the thread drift. |
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^ I think you were wise to walk out.....
EDIT...you guys should think about investing in a digital gram scale.....mine has already payed for itself (I've weeded out a few 1 oz fake silver rounds that didn't weigh in at ~31.1 grams)....also, keep in mind that a valid 1 oz silver coin can weigh anywhere from 31.1 to 31.4 grams, +/-0.2 grams is not unusual.....some of the fakes I have seen weighed in light, typically around 26 grams. |
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Just buy bullion - WTF would anyone mess around with numis? Silly premiums, and the greater fool market theory. Sorry to offend - just how I see it.
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I was wondering something the other day.. and this might be a good thread to ask on..
if a person is buying PM's in thought that one day they have to use them to barter with (purchase goods with) as the dollar collapsed; how will the person(cashier or other) know that the PM is not a fake?? after all there appears to be some pretty good fake PM's out there.. In the crisis like Argentina.. where banks are not there and you are surviving on your PM's .. how will one know a fake from the real deal?? just curious.. or should this be a seperate post ? |
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US 90% coin is a good way to go....why counterfit a Mercury dime? 1 oz govt silver coins (SAE, Maples, etc).....Gold carries a much larger risk in my opinion.
Would going to feel about accepting even a 1 oz krug, or a GAE? |
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EDIT: 1-oz .999 silver bars that weigh in the 30.3 - 30.9 gram range are usually the '70's SABs but is still within the weight varience for the '70's SABs based on what I read from another coin collecter based forum. |
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CHINA HAS SHipped fakes to the U S for over 50 years back in the 60's and 70's the 50 d nickle ... every one had an uncirc.
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[QUOTE=OutlawJoseyWalesJr;1978524]. Good advice is to weigh all gold and silver with a digital gram scale.QUOTE]
I am guessing that a digital postal scale that also reads in grams will not be accurate enough? I am getting 30gr on each of 4 ASEs bought randomly. |
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[quote=VPW;1978549]
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That might be possible that your scale might be off because SAE's will usually weigh in the 31.1-31.3 gram range. I have not seen any SAE's weigh less than 31.1 grams. You might want to double check your scale. I have never seen any 1-oz silver gov't minted coins weigh less than 31.1. Engelhards usually weigh 31.1-31.4 grams. JM bars will weigh about the same as Engelhards. I have not seen any "modern" minted silver art bars weigh less than 30.9 grams and they will usually weigh 31.1-31.3 grams. Of the very few bars that weigh less than 31.1 grams seem to be '70's SABs by certain mints. I think that has to do with the less than perfect minting process of some of those '70's SABs but I could be wrong about that. Even then, they are within the weight variance for '70's SABs (7% weight variance according to another poster on another coin collector forum) and pass the silver ring and magnet test. |
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Ignorance is also bliss. :smile: |
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When you are talking about coins that high dollar (especially when you are dealing with a total of $75,000 in a single transaction), and you don't physically examine at least some of them out of the case, that is just careless. |
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Here's how it works: Take a valuable coin, cut it along the edge so that it's split front and back, then attach one of the pieces to another cut from a different coin.
The idea is to mix mint and year marks to create coins that appear more valuable. This seems too difficult to me. Why not simply mill away the back side of the coins not wanted and then put the 2 good halves together. I thought the year and date for coins were on the same side. I am not into numismatics. But I will buy a new coin from US Mint and hold it for some numi appreciation. Just adds to the profits. Seems smart way to go. It should also be much easier to fake a silver coin over a gold coin. With 100 ounce silver bar would it work to do a specific gravity test. Although I can guess that it is much easier to duplicate the sp gravity of silver then it is of gold. But I could be wrong on this guess. I am guessing that because Silver is lower sp gravity then gold and maybe there are other metals to match up the silver value. Gold is tricky because it is so dense. |
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If you look up pictures of old Trade Dollars you will see some pictures of the punch mark on the back side of the coins. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3181/...d20060a9ff.jpg punch mark on a british coin. |
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